Perhaps it was a tongue-in-cheek response to fashion’s mad merry-go-round of late, or to its increasingly frenzied pace, that Marc Jacobs decided to present his spring ’12 collection for Louis Vuitton on a pristine white carousel.
Perhaps it was a tongue-in-cheek response to fashion’s mad merry-go-round of late, or to its increasingly frenzied pace, that Marc Jacobs decided to present his spring ’12 collection for Louis Vuitton on a pristine white carousel.A white curtain lifted to reveal all the girls, in cotton-candy colors, perched and spinning around on identical white ponies. All irony aside, the collection was meant to represent a joie de vivre, a gentleness and a sense of enjoyment. All traces of last season’s fetishism was discarded for a sugar-coated sweetness and lady like demeanor.
The supple construction of the clothes was exposed through luminous plays on transparency. Bell skirts and pastel dresses stood away from the body in a slightly 50s, early-60s voluminous silhouette. While the clothes were intensely decorated, there was a propriety and delicacy in the use of broderie anglaise. Boxy tops, meanwhile, were left open at the back, providing a rare glimpse of skin in an otherwise demure collection.
If you like sweetness and light, this was a heavenly constellation of prettiness. There would have been more of it, but Vuitton had already booked the biggest carousel in Paris, so Jacobs had to edit the collection down to 48 outfits.
Jacobs transformed motifs from past Louis Vuitton collections, as well as his own line, but here rendered in a lighter way. The toughness of a motorcycle jacket was removed when realized in pale, powdery crocodile; handcuffs from last season were replaced by musical, bell-shaped silver bangles. In fact, silver replaced gold as the dominant metal throughout. Small and ladylike minaudières came with a drawstring closure.Change for Marc Jacobs, whether going to the house of Dior or merely in spirit, was signaled in his exit. His trademark kilt was switched for a crisp white slacks.
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- Marc Jacobs On Why He’s Not Moving to Dior: ‘Couture is Archaic’ (graziadaily.co.uk)
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