Like a schoolgirl playing truant, Maria Cornejo stole away for a couple of hours during the Paris collections in February to visit one of her favorite haunts, the Musée du Quai Branly, where she stumbled across artifacts that would later serve as inspiration for her spring Zero + Maria Cornejo collection. “You feel like you’re traveling the world in there,” she recalls of the museum. Her souvenirs? A yellow Bolivian carnival figure, red African headdress, and a blurred iPhone shot of workmen setting up an exhibition inside. Filtered through Cornejo’s imagination, however, this seemingly random selection took the Chilean designer in a more structured and altogether more colorful direction. Gone were the overtly loose, draped dresses solely in monochromatic neutrals. Instead, her trademark draping was cut closer to the body—sometimes offering a slimmer curve, other times a close, boxy fit, but always suggesting a more sinuous silhouette. And although there were a number of full white looks dotted throughout, Cornejo put new focus on red-and-blue jacquard prints, which, following a season of electric neons and near-clashing color combinations, offered a refreshingly sober alternative.
The designer assures, however, that this paring down of her silhouette wasn’t a subversive attempt at rationing in light of the recession. “You can’t start with a price point,” she says firmly. “You have to start with a desire, then make things people want to invest in.” That’s her Latin spirit talking. And from the silk, flame-print cocoon frocks to the black leather cropped jacket and high-waist short suits, spring offers a number of reasons for the Cornejo woman to spend.
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